Pattern sharing time!!

Well, I’m moved in to my new house, and between boxes being unpacked I managed to finish the first pair of socks knit with my own personal pattern. I made some changes along the way, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

So, as promised, here is my own (very plain) sock pattern:

Sizes: average woman’s (average men’s)

Materials:
Colour A - Approx. 280 yards/100 grams of sport weight yarn.
Colour B - Approx. 70 yards/25 grams of same yarn, different colour.
Size 4, 5, or 6 (depending on gauge) long circular needle (long enough for magic loop ~ 36+ inches)
Stitch markers
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Gauge:
Something like 21 sts and 28 rows per 4 inches in stockinette

Pattern

Loosely cast on 48 (50) stitches. To keep it loose at the top of the cuff, I sometimes like to cast on and knit the first few rows with needles one size larger than I knit the rest of the sock with.
Divide in half and join in the round using magic loop (ensure stitches are not twisted to avoid a big headache later).
Place a marker or leave your yarn tail long to remind you where you started.

CUFF
Round 1: With colour A, *K2P2; Repeat from * around.
Repeat round 1 until cuff measures approx. 7” or desired length.
**Make stripes with colour B as desired by joining new colour at beginning of round.**

DIVIDE FOR HEEL
Knit 12 stitches
Slip next  24 (26) onto stitch holder (this is the instep & will remain unworked until after the heel is worked)
Straighten out the circular needle so that all 24 stitches to be knit are in a row - ready to start a wrong-side row.

HEEL FLAP
Join colour B
Row 1: (wrong side)
Slip first stitch purlwise; Purl to end
Row 2: Slip first stitch knitwise; Knit to end
Repeat rows 1 & 2 until heel flap measures 2 ¼ to 2 ¾ inched, ending with row 2.

TURNING HEEL
Row 1: Slip first stitch purlwise; purl next 13 stitches; p2tog; p1, turn work.
Row 2: Slip first stitch knitwise; k5; ssk; k1; turn work.
Row 3: Slip first stitch purlwise; p6; p2tog; p1; turn work.
Row 4: Slip first stitch knitwise; k7; ssk; k1; turn work.
Row 5: Slip first stitch purwise; p8; p2tog; p1; turn work.
Row 6: Slip first stitch knitwise; k9; ssk; k1; turn work.
Row 7: Slip first stitch purlwise; p10; p2tog; p1; turn work.
Row 8: Slip first stitch knitwise; k11; ssk; k1; turn work.
Row 9: Slip first stitch purlwise; p12; p2tog; turn work.
Row 10: Slip first stitch knitwise; k12; ssk.
*Note: There should now be 14 heel stitches

SETTING UP INSTEP
Change back to colour A
*Note: Create small loops with your circular needle wherever necessary to knit around the instep. I usually create 3 loops at this point (simulating 3 double pointed needles).
Part 1: With the right side facing, pick up 16 (18) stitches along the side of the heel flap. Place marker
Part 2: Knit across the 24 (26) stitches on the holder. Place marker.
Part 3: Pick up 16 (18) stitches along this side of the heel flap.
Part 4: Knit across the next 7 stitches of the heel flap. This is now the beginning of the round. Part 5: Create your magic loop so that there are 35 (38) stitches on either side of the loop.

DECREASING INSTEP
Round 1: Knit around.
Round 2: Knit to last 3 stitches before first marker; k2tog; k1; slip marker
Knit to next marker; slip marker; k1; ssk; knit to end of round.
Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until 48 (52) sts remain.
Re-arrange round so that the top 24 (26) sts are on one needle and the bottom 24 (26) are on the other.

FOOT
Knit every round until foot measures ~8” (or 2 ½” short of desired length).

SHAPING TOE & FINISHING
Change to colour B
Round 1: knit first stitch; ssk; knit to last 3 stitches on first needle; k2tog; k1. Repeat on second needle.
Round 2: Knit around.
Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 until 24 or 20 stitches remain (your preference).
Finish by grafting the toe using the Kitchener Stitch.
Weave in ends and start your next sock!